Floor Heating

Keeping warm and comfortable, is a source of great comfort for all of us…
Creating an environment that is comfortable and welcoming depends on combining a number of factors that affect your overall comfort. Conventional heating methods tend to neglect these factors. Stuffy offices, drafty rooms, and cold floors are all too familiar and unpleasant that result from poor heating systems.

You feel most comfortable on a mild day (for example out in an open field) where the air is cool and warmth is coming from a radiant heat source (the sun, and surfaces around us).

Hot air at a high temperature makes the room feel close and stuffy. The air dries out, that makes your eyes and mouth dry and uncomfortable. Convection currents carry dust around the room and this can aggravate allergies and sinuses, and makes your rooms dustier, much faster.

The answer?

Radiant floor heating … because the room warms from floor level up, the objects in the room become warm to the touch, and they become heating surfaces themselves … while the air remains cool and pleasant. This results in;

  • Greater comfort
  • Cleaner rooms as there is limited movement of house dust
  • Silent and invisible, there are no hazardous heated elements or surfaces
  • No condensation and stuffiness
  • No dry air
  • Huge benefit to asthma and bronchitis sufferers
  • Safe for children
  • Economical and energy efficient with low energy consumption

Ask us which floor heating solution would work best for you …

  • Water based floor heating
  • Undertile heating
  • Undercarpet heating
  • Underlaminate heating
  • Attractive thermostat options
  • Insulation
  • Insulation boards
No obligation quote

Water Based Heating

Hot water in the region of 40 degrees Celsius is pumped through a series of polyethylene pipes in the floor which results in warm floors.

The heat source (heat pump) and circulating pump are housed externally and are linked to a distribution panel. The pipes in the floor are arranged in a manner to distribute heat quickly and uniformly through a building. The pipes are connected by flow and return lines to the distribution panel. The heated water is transported through the pipes and heat is conducted into the floor slab. The result is a warm floor which radiates warmth into the room, heating all solid objects such as walls, ceilings, furnishings in the same natural manner that the sun heats the earth.

For customers who wish to reduce their energy consumption further, we are able to offer solar water heating with solar collectors and a storage tank, to reduce the heat pump heating time.

The control of the system lies in monitoring the room temperature for comfort. We install either an analogue controller (thermostat) for basic control of room temperature control, or a digital controller for control of floor and air temperature.  The simplicity of the system is such that it can be easily controlled both as to temperature and time, and result in optimum energy efficiency and low running costs

The system can also be connected to pool heating in summer using a heat exchanger.


We offer a wide range of thermostats that allow for a new level of energy efficient control, and will suit your lifestyle and your budget! Beginning with a manual thermostat with the option of air or floor control, followed by a digital 4 event programmable thermostat, and finally, the ‘Rolls Royce’ being a Central Control or Link System, where a master thermostat controls the entire building, and slave thermostats are fitted in each room.

Thermostats are supplied on 2×4 or 4×4 cover plates, and in a variation of suppliers to the industry; Clipsal S2000 (in various colours), Clipsal S3000 (in black or white), Legrand Arteor, Crabtree Diamond range, or a stainless steel upmarket variant. All of our thermostats have a 3 year factory warranty.

Sectional WUFH Installations

Sectional WUFH Installations

Download as PDF or click the image to enlarge

Sectional EUFH Installations

Sectional EUFH Installations

Download as PDF or click the image to enlarge


Water Based Floor Heating

Content to follow


It is cost saving because the heater will turn off once it has reached the desired temperature
We would first establish what your requirements would be before recommend a thermostat. Questions we would ask: Is the thermostat to fit into a 100mm x 100mm (4 x 4) or 50mm x 100mm (2 x 4) wall box or is the thermostat to be surface mounted next to a wall socket outlet. Would you prefer a programmable (SET and FORGET) or manually operated electronic thermostat
A programmable thermostat has the ability to control both temperature and time.

Marmox Insulation Board

Marmox is a construction board made of extruded polystyrene, which is totally waterproof, faced on either side with a fibreglass mesh, which is embedded into a thin cement polymer mortar.
Being extremely strong, Marmox can be used as a structural element in the floor. It will not only take a load of 30 tonnes per square metre, so it’s ideal for putting under your floor, but it keeps your floor warmer, longer, by not allowing heat to penetrate down into the concrete substrate below.
Because Marmox will save you money by acting as a very efficient insulation barrier. It reflects the heat upwards into the floor tile instead of allowing the heat to warm up the concrete slab below.
By using Marmox, you will find that after switching on your heating, your floor tiles will warm up in about 10-15 minutes. Without Marmox, it could take anything from 2-3 hours, or more. The benefit is self-evident.
The thicker the Marmox the better the heat insulation, but obviously if you have an existing floor that you want to insulate, you may well be governed by the thickness you can add to the floor because of the height from the finished floor to the underside of your door. Even by using 6mm Marmox you will notice the benefit of insulating with Marmox.
On floors you butt them up laid in a staggered fashion, just the way a brick wall is built. On walls they can be butted up & mechanically fixed using plugs & screws.
Marmox can be either fixed to timber battens with screws and screw cups or fixed directly to brick or block walls by drilling, plugging and screwing the boards to the wall. If the wall is to be plaster finished, the joints should be reinforced with a plaster scrim.
Lay a 5mm bed of cementitious flexible floor tile adhesive and lay the boards in a chequer plate fashion (like bonding brickwork) onto the adhesive. Firmly bed and allow the adhesive to set before allowing work to continue on the board surface – approximately 24 hours.
If the floor is sound and level, Marmox boards can be mechanically fixed using screws With large heads, or washers under the head, to enable the screws to ‘bite down’ into the Marmox board. If the flooring is uneven, the floor should be levelled using plywood first.

Contact us for a ZERO obligation quote

One of our friendly staff members will get back to you within 24hrs.
Request a Quote